Shoe.



W. J. DREY.

SHOE.

APPLICATION AFILED 1330.13, 1910.

Patentd July 29, 1913.

ing operation'l are remove UNITED sTATlas PATENT oFFIcE.

WILFRED J'. DREY, OF CATAWISSA, PENN SYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SHOE.

Patented July 29, 1913.

Application filed December 13, 1910. Serial No. 597,054.

To all whom, it may concern:

`Be it known that I, iViLrRnn J.VDREY, a citizen of the United States, residing at- Catawissa, in the county of Columbia and State of Pennsylvania,` have invented certain Improvements in Shoes, of which the following description, in connection With the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on. the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to shoes and-is herein shown as embodied in a shoe of the type known toh the trade as Goodyear Weltshoes although it will be understood that some features of the invention can be embodied to advantage in shoes of other types.

An object of the invention is to provide an improved shoe which will be stronger, tighter, and more durable than shoes of the better grades now known, while maintaining aliof the desirable characteristics of such shoes, particularly as to iit and appearance, and which, furthermore, can be made more easily and at a lower cost. v

In the manufact-ure of Welt shoes, the upper is usually lasted over the edge of the insole and secured in lasted position by tacks driven into the insole, preferably in the angle of union between the feather of the insole and the shoulder or channel lip against which the welt is sewed. The upper Vis-then allowed to set to lasted Ashape afterwhich the welt is attached to the upper and insole. Before the Welt attaching operationQ however, some, or all, of the lasting tacks are removed to prevent their interfering too much with the needle of the welt attaching machine. When all of the lasting tacks are removed, the usual practice is to inserta few lighter tacks to hold the upper in position for the welt attaching operation. The tacks which remain in the shoe durino' the Welt attachl d after this operation,providedthey. have not been broken'oiil by `the needle vof the welt attaching machine. It frequently happens, however, that the headsof some of the tacks are cutoff' by the needle during the. welt-'attaching operation, and the 'points of thesetacks `are thus left in the shoe after the usual tack pulling op'- eration and frequently escape detection until the shoe is placed upon the foot of the wearer. Moreover the tacks which hold the upper in position for the welt attaching operation interfere somewhat with the proper attachment ofthe Welt and with the formation of a tight, close inseam uniting the Welt, upper and insole.

An important object of the invention is to 'eliminate the difficulties encountered in obtaining to do away with the danger of leavingpoints a'tight inseam and at the same time of broken-off tacks projecting into thev in? side of the finished shoe. To this end, the invention contemplates attaching the upper to the insole, preferably after the lasting operation and before the Welt attachin operation, in such manner that no part o the attaching fastening shall project into the -inside of vthe shoe and that the upper shall be secured firmly in position for the Welt attaching operation, the securing fastenings forming a part of the permanentfastenings attaching the upper to the insole and aiding to make a tighter, closer fitting and more durable shoe.

, Other objects and features of the invention will be apparent when the following description and claims are considered inconnection with ings, inY which# Figure 1"is`a` perspective view of a partly completed shoe in which the invention is embodied in a preferred form; and Fig. 2 is a transverse section through the completed shoe. l v

The preferred method of making the shoe constituting the present invention is disclosed and fully described in my copending application Serial No.585,060, filed October 3, 1910, and Will be only briefly described in connection with the present invention. The preferred fastening for uniting the upper to the insole to reinforce the union of these parts by thel inseam and to prepare these parts` for the Welt attaching operation is a stapl`e,preferably of fine Wire, the size of the accompanying drawthe Wire and its strength being so proportioned to the corresponding characteristics vof the needle of the welter that the staple will not interfere with the operation of said needle, and the term ne wire, as used in -forming vand insertin between the lasting tacks, lhelps further to conform the upperto the shape of the last.

Moreover as the staples are preferably inserted through the Y upper and the outer channel lip and clenched upon the inside of the outer channel lip, or if the insole lbe .provided with a rib of the type formed vupon Gem insoles' are inserted lthrough the rib and clenched upon the insideof said rib, the upper is secured to the insolein such position as to permit the most eifectivevoperation, of the weltfattaching means. In the preferred mode of makin the 1shoe of` this invention, the welt attac ng operation is further'facilitated by tucking the upper into the angle of union between 'the'chan'nel lip and the feather of the insole in advance of the staple inserting operationand inserting the staple close to this angle of union.

In the drawings, the upper 2 is lasted over the edge of the insole 4,'which is secured to the bottom of the last 6 in the usual manner, and is confined in lasted'position by tacks 8 drivenintofthe insolefand throu h the insoleinto the last preferablyI in t e angle of union between t e outer channel lip 10 of the insole and the feather 12, the toe part ofthe upper being confined in lasted position by a binding wire 14 attached at its ends to stay tacks 16. The lasting tacks 8 are, as usual, only partiall inserted so that they may be easily remove After theV lasting operation and at any time before the removal of the lasting tacks, the staples 18, which are preferably utilized to hold the upper in position for the welt attaching operation as well as to form 1part of the ermanent fastenings uniting t e upper an insole, are inserted through the upper and outer channellip or through the upper and rib or shoulder of the insole, if a different type of insole is employed, the staples being inserted, preferably, at points of excessive strainto reinforce the inseam as well as to secure the upper most effectively for the welt attaching operation and being clenched, as at 19, to secure the parts united by them firmly together.

The number of the staples inserted will vary plesbeing preferably inserted, as above suggested,at points where, the strain is exces-I with different types of shoes and with the materials employed in the shoe, the sta-v being left largely to the judgment ofthe operator. One or morestaples will preferably be inserted, as at 20, through the upper, counter and insole channel lip, so that the forward end ofthe counter will be confined in the. angleV of union between the channel lip and the feather of the insole and a proper union ofthese parts during the `welt attaching operation will be insured.

Some of the staples will preferably, be inserted around the toe, thus permitting the removal ofthe toe -binding wire during the welt attaching operation.

The upper and insole havingbeen united by staples, in the manner set forth, all of the lasting tacks 8 are removed, together withthe blnding wire 14 and-the stay tacks 16, and the welt,upper and insole are then united by stitchesf22 in the usual manner. The succeeding operations upon the shoe, including the Ainseam trimming operation and the layin of the outsole, are then performed, and t e voutsole and welt are united by a line 4of stitches 24 in the usual manner.

It will be noted that the staples 18 and 20 are so inserted that they are above the path of 'o eration-` of the needle of the welt attachlng machine and below the field of operation ofthe inseam trimmer, and that, therefore, they are permanent fastenings in the shoe and tend to hold the upper and insole tightly together, thereby preventing moisture fromgaining entrance to the inside of the shoe. The staples thus increase, both directly and indirectly, .the durability of the shoe. It will be noted further that the staples are so located that after the welt is attached the heads or outer ends of thel staples will be covered by the weltv and that the inner ends of the staples will be covered by the inner channel lilp provided the sole is of the type having suc a lip.

In the foregoing descri tion the insertion of the staples has been re erred to as taking place preferably after the lasting operation and before the welt attaching operation. It will be understood, however, that the location and the function of the staples are more important than the time of insertion and that these staples may therefore be inserted at other times, for exam le, during the lasting operation, to take tie place of the usual means for securing the upper in lasted position. Moreover as these staples are of very line wire, referably not exceeding 35/1000 of an inc in diameter, andas they never enetrate to the inside of the shoe, they a ect in no manner the flexibility of the finished shoe and are open to none of the objections to the use of metallic fastenings in welt shoes which have heretofore necessitated the removal of all suchfastenings before the completion of the shoe. The use of fine wire informing these staples also makes the time of their insertion less important, since they will not interfere with the succeeding operations upon the shoe and will not form openings in the upper, channel lip, or other parts which they penetrate, of such size that they will damage'or weaken such parts or in any way interfere with. the holding power of other fastenings, Whether the other fastenings be inserted before the staples are inserted, or thereafter. tice I have found wire of a diam-eter of 16/1000 of an inch very satisfactory.

Although the invention has-been specifically described as embodied in a Goodyear welt shoe,r itwill-be apparent, as above suggested, that some features may be embodied 4to advantage in shoes of other types, for example turn shoes. The possibility of thus employing certain features of the invention should be takeninto consideration in construing the terms of the claims.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to 'secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. A shoe, comprising an upper, an insole, a line of inseam stitches which extend through the upper and a portion of the insole in directions substantially parallel to the bottom face of the insole and staples of tine wire likewise extending through the upper and a portion of the insole only in directions substantially parallel to the aforementioned face of the insole, said staples being located at points of excessive stra in and within the inseam trimming line and being so inserted and clenched upon said insole as not ,to appear upon the vinner face of said insole.

2. A shoe, comprising an upper, an insole and a welt, a line of stitches forming an inseam uniting said welt to said upper and insole, said stitches also serving to unite the upper and insole,and metallic fastenings of tine wire inserted through the upper and a part of the lar intervals to reinforce the inseam, said fastenings being locatedA within the inseam trimming line and being clenched -upon the insole Aupon its outer side and having their outer ends covered by the welt.:

3E. A shoe, comprising an upper,'an insole and a welt, a line of stitches forming an inseam which unites said welt to said upper and insole, said stitches also serving to unite the upper and insole, `and separate permanent metallic fastenings of ne'wire driven through the upper and a part of the insole only in such manner as to reinforce the irrscam, said #fastenings being clenched vupon said insole upon the outer side thereof and inside the inseam trimming line, and beingentirely concealed between the insolelan'd the outsole. Y Y. y 4. A shoe, comprising an upperv and insole only at .irreguf insole sliapedto provide a shoulder against which the upper is'sewed, said upper being lasted over said 'insole'in substantially the usual manner, staples of fine wire-securing the upper against said shoulder, said staples being inserted at relatively long intervals and at points between the points of location of the original means for securing the upper in lasted position and being clenched upon the insole upon the outer side thereof and inside the inseam trimming line to form pai-t of the permanent fastenings which unite the insole and upper, a welt united to said upper and insole by stitches which also serve to unite the upper and insole, the welt being attached after the staples are inserted whereby it covers the heads of the staples, and au outsole attached to said welt.

A shoe, comprising an upper and an insole, staples attaching said upper to said insole, a welt united to said upper and insole by stitches which also serve to unite the upper and insole, said staples being inserted through the upper and channel lip and being located outside the path of movement ofthe needle of the welt attaching machine and being clenched upon the insole upon the outer side thereof to form part of the permanent fastenings which imite vthe insole and upper, and an outsole attachei'l to said welt.` i,

6. A shoe, 4cc'im'p'rising 'an upper and a channeled insole, the channel in said'insole providing a rib or shoulder against which the upper isl sewed, staples Eattaching said upper to said insole, said staples being inserted through the upper and channel lip and clenched `upon theinside of said chan* nel lip, and being located above the path of movementof thc needle of the welter and below thevfield of operation of the inseam trimmer, whereby they form a part of the permanent fastenings in the slice, a welt `united to said upper and insole by stitches which also serve to unite the upper and insole, and an outsole `attached to said welt.

7. A shoe, ,comprising an upper. an insole, aline of inseam stitches which extend throughV the upper and a portion of thc iusole in directions si'ibstantially parallel to the face of .tli`e iiisole, said stitches not appearing-upon the ii'inei'fface of the insole` andstaples of fine wire likewise extending 'thri'iugh the upper and a portion of the insole only in directions substantially parallel to the aforementioned face of the insole.

said staples vpassing through independent` openings in fthe upperandinsole. inside the inseafii'i trimming line being so inserted and clei'iched upon said insole as alsonot to appear upon the inner face ot said insole, and constituting permanent parts of 'the shoe.

shoe, comprising an upper and an insole, staples of tine wire attaching said upper to said insole, a welty at-tachedto said l In testimony whereof I hve signed' .my

upper and insole by stitches which also serve name to this specification in the presence of to unite the -upper and insole, said staples two s'nbscribmg Witnesses.

being located inside-the inseam trimming line and having their outer ends covered by the welt and the'n; inner ends coveredhy l the inner channel lip.

WILFRED J. DREY.

' Witnesses:

H. L. HERRON, e Ronnn'r M. ZIEGLER. 

